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That’s not a new concept, but it’s important that we have that flexibility. We create the pastas very specifically, and they’re based on a noodle or sauce. If you have dietary restrictions or a sensitive stomach, that’s fine. But I have a hard time saying that I’m someone who supports sustainability and serving it.

We’re not in Italy, we’re in New York, and people grow different things. She wouldn’t call herself the alpha cook, but every night, there was a homecooked meal on the table, and it was fresh. But you’re there and engaged in someone else’s world and work, and there’s a certain amount of respect required there. It’s not Italian, so it wouldn’t be on the menu at Franny’s anyway.

Cooking was a focal point in Johnathan Adler’s childhood home–“My mom always smelled of garlic, the kind of garlic that’s in your veins,” he recalls–but he entered the professional culinary world thanks, in part, to sibling rivalry.

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By the end of 2011, the chef was starting to get itchy feet, and he contemplated making 2012 his last year at Franny’s, which still had yet to move from its original location. I felt like we’d molded it to all the forms it could be.

“I didn’t want to stay in that space,” he explains. So it was either start a new project with Franny [Stephens] and Andrew [Feinberg], start a project with Danny, take another offer, or take some time off and do my own thing.” He set a January 2012 deadline to decide and put in his notice, and just before he was ready to break the news to his bosses, they showed him the new space. The new, larger Franny’s opened in March with Adler at the helm; Amend will open Marco’s, in the old Franny’s space, later this year.

“I thought, ‘Wow, I have to work here,'” he recalls.

So he e-mailed Dan Barber while he was abroad, who told him to come into the restaurant and chat when he returned.

People who work for themselves weed themselves out quickly. I get inspiration from the canon of classic Italian cuisine, which provides reference points.

I try to make a kitchen that people want to come in every day and have the attitude that they’re going to do better today than they did yesterday. There’s a lot of classical Italian pasta on the menu like amatriciana. And not to sound horribly cheesy about it, but the farmer’s market.

Spain, Southern France, Italy–that was the food we grew up with. I have a lot of respect for people who cook it thoughtfully.

We lost my dad when I was 11, and I look back on that now–it was the end of sixth grade for me, the end of 10th for my sister, and my brother is seven years older–she never let up. I saw Dan Barber do things with foie gras at Stone Barns that I was blown away by.

I’ll see this amazing stuff, buy it, and take it as a challenge, thinking okay, how do I make this Italian?

If I taste the best shishito peppers ever, how can we make them Italian? Is there a special request you really dislike or won’t accommodate? And changing noodles, like when someone asks if they can have the pork sausage and broccoli rabe with the spaghetti. If you want a catered meal, you hire a personal chef for that.

He began trailing in other illustrious kitchens, including Eleven Madison Park, but none of them felt right.

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